Wake up to an amazing clear sky and hot, hot, hot sun. Smoked salmon and a side of salmon were beckoning from the local trading post. We were served by Morten who had a twin brother Mattius, so perhaps we were served by Mattius and not Morten. With delicious looking salmon, refueled and water to the top of the tanks we were ready to head off to Traena. A 20 mile sail or motor away. The most exciting part of the journey was putting up the code zero, with 8-10kn of breeze from the NE we were so excited to be able to hoist this sail. The bow sprit worked and we cruised along very happily.
Traena and back across the Arctic circle by 5pm, the cruising guide describes Husoy as a treachourous harbour to go into. It is certainly very twisty and turny and the chart plotter doesn’t truly reflect the new breakwaters they are currently constructing. We did make it in and the long pontoon beckoned, until a guy in a fluorescent vest came to tell us we couldn’t stay unless we were going to the music festival that started the following day. A little bit of sweet talking later Rorven was persuaded that we would be leaving the next day before the 30 boats arrive that were taking part in a race to Traena (winner gets free entry to the festival) as well as the rest of the boating festival goers arrived.
The evening was spectacular, warm and sunny as we strolled around the village. It is a miniature scale festival set in the local outdoor football stadium, the local children were meeting the ferry with trolleys to carry backpackers luggage to the camp ground. The island was slowly being invaded by 20 something year olds.
Falling into bed, after midnight, we were happy to have reached the Traena archipelago but rudely awoken by a very large motor boat and crew arriving at 4am drinking and playing loud music right next to us: the people on board were around our age and not popular! When we woke in the morning it seemed the perfect time to play some morning music and laugh and chat as loudly as possible. Our friend Rorven was very keen to help and even gave us waffles!!
We decided we would stick to our plan and leave to go to Sanna which is the neighbouring island. It has a radar station at its highest point, accessible via a 700m unlit tunnel: be prepared for sensory overload after being plunged into complete darkness. We were advised to have torches without which it wouldn’t have been navigable. The views from the top were amazing and another path down became apparent, so over the cliff we went following a well marked trail that led down to the Kirkehellaren, a vast cave and apparently a treasure trove of Mediaeval objects that were uncovered in the 1930s. It was believed to be a burial ground following the Black Death as they found the remains of 30 or so people. The island was tiny but offered a morning of great finds.
The forecast was for fog later in the day so were keen to get underway to travel the next 10 miles across to Lovund. As we cast off a layer of cloud/fog crept over the mountain top that we were just on in a very Harry Potteresque way. The sun was still out but the fog was approaching fast and earlier than anticipated. It enveloped the boat around 30 minutes into the journey and we were then on full alert to get to Lovund. Fog horn being blown, eyes on deck and at the AIS we made it through some pretty narrow spots and past various high speed ferries moving at 25 – 30 knots on the AIS, heard but not seen. It was a real pea soup but we made it into harbour with out misshap.
The neighbouring boat in Lovund was a Viking ship replica built in Trondheim for a celebration in 2000. It had 8 hearty souls on board, who had signed up to sail from Trondheim to Traena. There was room for four to sleep in the aft cabin and four on deck under canvas. This would have been very inviting throughout the beautiful sunny days we have been enjoying but in the dank, foggy conditions where everything on board was dripping we were very happy to be able to light our Reflek stove and close the hatches! They were a chatty bunch and showed Geoff & Willi how to fillet fish (they had 20 small fish to fillet for fish stew) and later in the evening Willi joined them in Norwegian lullabies that started around 11.30pm and ended around 2.30am (the rest of us enjoyed the music from the warmth of our bunks!).
Not getting to sleep until very late meant we could justify a lie in and knowing the fog was still going to be around until at least after lunch meant we had a very lazy start to the day, to do some provisioning and a bit of laundry. There were puffins to be found though - this was our mission: to seek out the Lundefuglene.
The island is well know for the arrival on April 14th of thousands of puffins, who stay until mid August. The colony is very close to the village but a day with poor visibility meant we could only see the low flying ones who came in from the sea to feed their young. It was still quite an amazing sight. They nest in the rocks and bring in a mouth full of fish to their young. If the sky had been clear we would have seen hundreds of them.
With the forecast true, the fog lifted, the sun was out and we could sail away at 5pm. With a great up wind sail between the islands we headed towards the mainland. Silavagen, a huge landlocked bay, where we will be dropping anchor.