Anchorage by the small boat mooring buoys. A bit of road traffic. We saw people trolling for fish, and saw fish jumping so reckoned they were trying to catch salmon. Decided to try our hand at this when we pulled anchor and slowly motored out. Think the technique wasn’t quite right and should have added a small weight to the line to bring it just below the surface. Canny fish didn’t take our hook.
The anchorage we headed for next: Vagsvagen on Donna, had a great reach down to it with glorious sunshine. Also had the code zero up for some of the journey. All sails were quickly furled when we saw an overhead cable at the entry to the bay. None of our chart plotters/paper charts say what the height of the cable is which is very frustrating. As we motored very slowly to within binocular reading reach, we could see it said 23m at high water which meant we were clear. It is a bay with many different areas to anchor, we chose the SE bay where there was an old wreck up on the shore. On the way in we had spotted what looked like two porpoises but we subsequently found are small whales called ‘nissa’ (sp. Uncertain). A local fellow who came out for a chat on his boat told us that’s what they were. It was a really stunning spot.
Anchor up under sail, get away without the engine and then short tack out to the cable where we have to put the engine on to power through the narrowest spot. It is another glorious day and our lunch destination is Hjartoya where Geoff & I stopped on our way north. This time we were there on the hottest day of the year along with five other boats, ashore we found the Viking grave which dated to 500-800 AD where they had found remains of a man with fish, tools and a sheep. The settlement had a couple such graves. The hike was hot one so Geoff, Willi & Shirley all went for a swim. Shirley’s gasps of shock told me I was best placed manning the boat!
This was just a brief interlude in the days activities so we pulled up the anchor and set off another couple of miles toward Alstahaug. This bay was the home of Pedder Dass, a pastor and poet born in 1647. It is the site of the cathedral Journey out to the skerries and the UNESCO World Heritage Site. We hoped to see eider ducks in abundance. Followed the shallow, narrow track in and tied up alongside Gakka Mathus. Careful nav through the skerries. Just before arriving we stopped for fishing as Shirley wanted to try her hand and we were at a perfect contour line: after a few minutes she had snagged a cod and with a mixture of terror and excitement squealed for help!! It was a scrummy yummy dinner. Shirley’s first cod!! The proprietor of the restaurant appeared at some point in the evening, speaking o English we determined that we could stay on his dock but he thought we were very lucky to be there in the shallow water. If you want to eat at this restaurant you have to book in advance: he is not keen on last minute shows. I think he thought that’s what we were but all we hoped for was somewhere safe to tie up! A little later as traditional Nordland boat immerged from behind one of he skerries carrying two couples who were visiting our restaurateur. Turned out they built their own Nordland boat and had built the one we had seen in Lovund a few days before and had given up their spot in Traena to our former neighbours
Hysvaer. We were not going to be leaving until at least midday due to the state of the tide. It is a remarkably isolated place with a few houses, a restaurant and quite a few eider houses where the ducks nest. The ferry stops on request, which apparently it did in the middle of the night (high tide) when Shirley saw it arrive. We saw two people painting a building when we arrived and in the morning saw three people go into a barn, some chain saw type noises and then the three came out to eat waffles at the restaurant (one of them was the proprietor).
Arrived in overcast conditions after briefly stopping in Bronneysund to reprovision, first time we sailed right past and second time realised we hadn’t missed much. It was an easy decision to continue on. The prospect of not being able to see the hole in the mountain was disappointing. We waited a little while and the skies cleared enough so we set off on the 3km hike to the mountain. As the rain had cleared there were lots of people out hiking up as well. We were happy to have been able to take Willi & Shirley up and also happy to have been able to go on another good hike.
July 16 –
Left in rain and poor visibility. No wind. Chose spot at Vennesund to tie up along side but too shallow in the harbour- ran aground as we entered so retraced our steps to find a perfect anchorage in the sound of Langoya. We had a restful night and the following morning woke to a clear day.
July 17 –
Arrived at 1pm in sun/cloud to an almost empty dock. Tied up alongside and readied ourselves for a day of activity. Decided the best option for the day would be to rent bikes and do a round trip cycle of the island. The bikes had either no gears or just one or two First destination was 11km away on south of island to see the cave drawings dating back to Bronze Age. We knew there was a guided tour at 2pm but left the marina at 1.30 so thought it unlikely we’d make it, arrived at the start of the hike up to the cave at 2.30pm. Made the hike up in 20 minutes just as a guide was unlocking the entry to the cave so were able to tag along. We were equipped with our own torches and as the guide spoke only in Norwegian we were unable to understand what was being said. We did however see the drawings- a remarkable sight. Snuck out before the end of the incomprehensible talk to find a rock for lunch and wait for the tour to get down ahead of us. Return bike ride was approx 11km round the other side of the island. We had a lot of fun teasing Geoff that we had paid 400NOK for the guided tour that we didn’t really get. He was fuming whilst Shirley convinced him that this had really happened. He cycled off ahead of the rest of us and took some persuading that in the end we were pulling his leg.
W 5-8kn code zero
Rorvik overcast but calm. Tied up alongside same pier as last time. Many more boats here than a month ago.
Willi & Shirley treated us to dinner at the Museum which we had been told was good food and is open until 2100. Excellent food, the chef takes great care to present a fabulous meal. We shared a fish soup, quire delicious. Main courses were halibut and salmon. Halibut served with pureed cauliflower, chorizo & figs was a fabulous mix of flavours: delicious!
W&S’s last night and we were very sorry to say goodbye after a great couple of weeks. We were told by a fellow sailor that it is unusual to be able to wear shorts for more than two days in the summer in Norway, so 14 days is unheard of!
Whilst packing up the boat we were delighted to see Per Tore & Gunn arrive on Lisa II, we had met them on our second day out of Rorvik going north as they were heading to Trondheim to visit family.
Early morning goodbye to W&S, then boat cleaning and prep for the next trip. The sun came out and we had a glorious day ahead of us, punctuated by some great socialising with Per Tore & Gunn who invited us on board for a glass of wine around 2pm! We chatted and heard about their great trip and new grandchild (they now have seven) and then got back to boat work before returning for few more stories and the most generous gift: a Norwegian sweater for Geoff!!! They are quite amazing, generous people with amusing tales and anecdotes. We really enjoyed seeing them again.
Full day of travel leaving London at 6.30am for an early flight from Gatwick. James, Charli, Georgie, Tim with us and Sean Hopkins (James’ friend) who met us at the airport. Three flights later we arrived in Rorvik at 5.30pm, a quick stop at the supermarket for fresh food then off the dock by 7pm heading towards Sorgjaslingan. This is an old historic fishing harbour that used to have an important role in cod fishing. It is a delightful harbour and a perfect spot for the first night out with the new crew. There were quite a few boats tied up on the floating pontoon and very little water so there wasn’t room for us. Just as we were looking at anchorage options and small boat came motoring towards us and offered advice on where to go- he told us to follow him which we did through a very narrow channel and tied up on our own private dock. Having motored the whole way we arrived at 9.30, everyone was keen to jump ashore and explore. A delicious supper of coq au vin (thanks to Mr D) was followed by a tour of the island and spectacular views of the sun setting. We all fell into bed at 1.30am, happy campers!
Woke to fog, it wasn’t quite socked in as we experienced before so we decided we could head off to our next destination. The breeze was around 15kn from SW so we were able to sail. It was a good upwind sail and the fog lifted enabling us to see where we were headed. Tried fishing but with no luck, we are determined to try again. The harbour, Vollavukta, we were headed for, described in the guide as having fuel, electricity water etc looked like a derelict site with a very rickety pontoon and no depth. They seem to have started construction on a new breakwater since the book was written, so we had to review and sail a bit further for an anchorage which turned out to be perfect. It was in the same fjord and only 10 mins away. Great supper followed by rowing for all under 22s to the nearby island whilst the rest of us read a bit more and fell into bed. Georgie & Charli had planned where we would go next: key was electricity so we wanted to leave early to be sure to get a place on the dock where we could plug in.
July 24, 2014
Wind 14kn North
Up anchor around 9.30, still a little overcast but the forecast was for brighter which came pretty quickly. We were chased out of the sound by two other yachts who we were convinced were going to take our spot in Stokksund, our next stop (approx 25miles away). Once out of the narrow route from the anchorage the wind was perfect for a spinnaker run for 2 ½ hours which was so much fun. Geoff & I have been in to Stokksund before so are familiar with the area but today it is full of motor boats luckily there’s room for us. Arrived around 3.30pm.
James, Charli, Georgie & Sean jumped in the row boat to get away from the marina and swim, apparently the water is the warmest it has been in years so they were keen to get in. We could hear the squeals across the bay hopefully captured some pictures. They rowed back happy and salty so hosed down on the dock. Their enthusiasm encouraged Geoff & Tim to row over and skinny dip- we could hear the whoops of delight from them (or perhaps from Geoff). Everyone returned happy and full of energy. A great day had by all.